Fuel for thought

Ahaha! I made a funny again.

Here's another quick fix to replace a consumable on this car. The carburetor is a Rochester Quadrajet, model E4ME... I think. The computer-controlled carb (aka "CCC") is the sick marriage of old-fashioned, gas-guzzling, mechanically-operated, "no replacement for displacement" carburetion, and later '70s and '80s EPA emissions requirements plus market demand for fuel economy in a big V8, high-torque family-mover.

The result, I'm told, is the best fuel economy possible from a carbureted engine (when tuned correctly, all else working properly). It's true! When I first drove this ride home from the seller across three states, I checked the mileage vs how much I filled up and it was very close to 25 mpg average (mostly highway). I think that's outstanding considering the vehicle's age, condition, and I was in a nervous hurry.

Anyway, one of the first things I bought to replace on the car was a fuel filter. I had my shop manual in hand and was ready to get to task. At first, I thought I had the right fuel line and proceeded to try to loosen the bolt. No dice. None of my metric (or standard) wrenches seemed to fit. No, I wasn't using a flare wrench like I was supposed to. Shaddapabbouttit. So, I ended up leaving it be (except periodically hitting it with some liquid wrench). Meanwhile, I did the ball joints, springs, brakes, all that jazz I already mentioned.

So finally, it came time. I realized I had the wrong fuel line. I was up at the back of the carb (closest to the windshield), which is, of course, the return fuel line. Silly me. Re-read my manual a little more closely and found the correct fuel inlet.

Here's the fuel line on the front of the carb. See how the flare nut fitting is all beat up and nearly round? Yeah, don't do what Donnie Don't does and fuck it up that bad.

There is a vacuum line or two you should take off before accessing the fuel filter, and you can also remove the vacuum fitting pressed into the carb body in the middle of the photo.

This is the fitting. Removal is easy with a pair of pliers to grip it and twist, while pulling away gently. Don't squeeze too much or it will bend and cause vacuum leak problems.

Ideally, using a 5/8" flare wrench and a 1" box wrench, you hold the box wrench (on the left) and turn the flare nut with the other. They should turn in the opposite directions, not the same, or you'll damage the carb or fuel line. Lefty-loosey!

Then the big barrel part comes off the fuel line.

Inside, there is a filter, a spring, and around the threads somewhere is a small gasket. Sometimes this piece is still inside the carb body. Don't lose it, or leaks might happen. I have no idea where you might find a replacement...

The old filter (middle) and new one. There's a check valve that should point toward the fuel line (away from the carb body). The filter should only seat into the barrel in one direction if it's the right filter. Originally, I kept the old check valve, but then I switched it for the new one after I had some unrelated difficulties. The vice grips were for handling that rounded flare nut. It was really on there!

So, there's the fuel filter on this Olds 307 engine and Rochester Quadrajet carburetor.

O2 cents for your thoughts

I'm smirking about this post title a little more than I should.

So while I was undergoing the adventure of routing the vacuum hoses under the hood, I also took the opportunity to replace a couple things that have been bothering me. Again, I replaced them not because anything was wrong, but because the car is goddamn 28 years old and who knows when it was last done?

Our pictorial adventure today involves the oxygen sensor (O₂ for all the cool kids) and the fuel filter a little later. I'd actually bought the fuel filter some weeks ago with the intent on doing it early. Initially I thought the fuel filter was on the rear side of the carb... I didn't actually locate the fuel inlet +filter until I started this vacuum hose job. I also needed a tool to work the fitting loose. More on that in the next post.

Here's the part I bought. Also, I borrowed an oxygen sensor toolkit from papa O'Reilly. About $30 deposit. I love how cheap parts are for this engine. Sensor = $12-21 depending on your seller. Compare that to my '99 Camry at ~$70. Some vehicles have upstream and downstream, so multiply that by two! 

You might need one of these bad boys. You could cheat with a ratchet and a long hollow tube over the handle, but I friggin' love breaker bars. So damn useful. Ratchets can only take so much torque. Breaker bars 4 lyfe.

First, I located the O2 sensor. In this (I assume) stock engine it comes off the exhaust manifold on the passenger side.

The electrical connection goes up into a wire harness above.

The new sensor. It already has thread sealant protected by the plastic cap. Remove it before installing (duh).

Old vs new. Big difference had me worried it wouldn't fit the same way or work correctly.

I didn't show the actual toolkit being used, but it works like an offset ratchet, minus the ratcheting action. You turn it until you can't anymore, removing and reseating the breaker bar/hand ratchet, then snug it up.

Pro tip: Don't forget to connect the actual sensor bit to the wire harness. I used a little dielectric grease inside for some damn reason. Probably doesn't hurt.

Next episode: The fuel filter saga explained.

How many (miles of vacuum hose) must a man walk down?

Oh, boy. I knew there was some spaghetti under the hood of this car, but until I did some research into the actual components connected to that string-theory of an engine I didn't really know.

To be inexact, the Oldsmobile, 307 cubic-inch, electronically carbureted (sounds stupid when you say it) engine has 25 or more feet of hose (of various sizes) under the hood. That's an estimate based on the amount I've used to replace some of the most cracked and worn hose plus a guesstimate of the remaining hoses. It's a lot. And they're not in friendly places to reach, either.

I wanted to get into this because a) the car is 28 years old and, shit, something probably leaks somewhere, b) I don't know what's already been done by the previous owner, c) it's disgusting ugly under there, d) there were some interesting things going on with the idle and stalling after the engine had been stopped and started hot, then finally e) I wanted to understand the how and why all the hose was there in the first place. Y'know, really understand the vacuum diagram posted on the radiator cowl and what each component is and does. This new learning will help when I have to take it all off later trying to replace head gaskets, intake manifolds, and valve covers later....

Also, side note: I was quoted by a professional restoration shop for body work and repainting of everything. Top to bottom, rust repair, refinish, clear coat; the works. $15,000. The very awesome dude said (and I paraphrase here), "I wouldn't recommend doing all that though. I would focus on the major trouble spots that will cost you down the line." These 'trouble spots', as he called them, included the roof, hood, and the bumper filler on the rear quarter. The recommended option was to keep as much original as possible to retain value on the vehicle for future sale. I agree, but not for the value reason. Simply because they quoted only $3000 for that work.

Anyway, the dialogue between me and this engine compartment begins. I'll try to include photos of the process below. Safety not guaranteed. I have only done this once before.